No. Deposits are NOT "required", but they are recommended. A deposit will guarantee you a puppy from either a current or future litter.

Deposits are $200.00 minimum. Of course we will accept any amount over that should you wish to put down more.

Keep in mind, once NEW puppy pictures are posted, we allow depositors, first choices on pups IN THE ORDER IN WHICH THE DEPOSITS were received. Keep in mind, the puppy chosen first does NOT make him the best and the puppy chosen last, does NOT make him the worst. There's always a first and always a last. It's usually based on "eye candy" or emotional choosing based on looks. One persons treasure, can be another's trash and vice versa...

*More often than not, WE ALREADY HAVE DEPOSITS for litters that have NOT been born yet.

**Each litter will contain a certain number of pups. Once they are born and we know how many are available, then we can post on our web site, the amount of puppies we have available in that particular litter. If we already have pending deposits, those depositors initials will be posted in a box with numbers / positions (of the amount of puppies available on that litter), with initials of depositors next to those numbered puppies.

***If pups are already born and your considering putting down a deposit for a puppy, you will be able to select from the puppies, in the order in which your deposit was received.

****Sometimes, I as the breeder, need to select a puppy as well for my own stock. I as the breeder usually do NOT select a puppy (s) from any litter until around age 7 weeks. This time can vary but is never beyond 8 weeks of age. I as the breeder, only select puppies every few years. If I am selecting puppies on any litter, my initials will be posted / DB.

Puppies are selected based on pictures we post. We post puppies first pictures at approximately 1 week old and then every 2 weeks after that (because they don't change much any sooner than this) and we post different position pictures from pic to pic (top, sides, under belly, head straight on, profile, etc.). We like to have puppies selected by depositors as quickly as possible. We prefer this to be at 4 weeks old or sooner (they are released at 8-10 weeks) depending on their development (some litters develop / mature a little different than others) so this time frame is NOT written in stone, it's a guideline but as soon as the first client pics, we move up the line!

We keep all envelopes that deposits were sent in with as to validate or prove post marks if necessary. We post initials on our web site, and place them in the order in which they were received. If 2 checks come in on the same day, we go by post mark and times on the envelope.

You may ask "What happens if the pup I want never is available, because someone else selected it based on there deposit as received before mine? if a pup you would LIKE to have, based on pictures posted, you would simply select a different puppy that is still available... No matter which puppy you select, I can't see any reason why, you wouldn't love it, even if it were NOT your first choice. At this age (birth to 4weeks or so), they all look identical (EXCEPT for colorings/markings). Other than this one detail, they are essentially all the same (they are brothers and sisters). This is why we suggest put deposits in QUICKLY! By doing so, it moves you up the line in terms of selection slot. All pups are essentially the same so if you don't get the one that LOOKS the way you wanted, simply select another. You'll love that puppy just as much as another! It's like a NEW car that's for sale, there's one left in a certain color or options, you like that one but it sold, so you get another one just like it, but a different color perhaps but it operates and runs the same. It will run the same exact way. It's just what we call "eye candy" in terms of selection (a car or a puppy). We recommend you don't fall in love with any of the PICTURES of the puppies until it's YOUR TURN to select, this way your not disappointed as badly (if your NOT the # one depositor!!!)

We ask that when a deposit is sent, you text or email us to advise so we can watch for it and we do send an email confirmation upon receipt. If you choose NOT to submit a deposit, this is fine. If any are remaining UNSOLD on the release date, your welcome to come and look and see if you would like one at that time (we do NOT allow visitations prior to 1st vaccinations/physicals of the pups, see VISITATION POLICY on our web site. You'll know if any remain unsold by way of our FOR SALE page with pups NOT, marked pending or sold. The release date will be posted on the same puppy FOR SALE page as soon as it is estimated/determined (we post release dates at 60 days old but it can be as much as 10 weeks. This time frame can fluctuate based on puppy development but usually doesn't. Sometimes puppies can be released after 8 weeks if weaning is done at that time, first shots and physical is completed and their development is satisfactory.

Deposits are not refundable. We do not go back and forth accepting money then giving it back. DO NOT submit a deposit unless your committed to a deposit. If for whatever reason, you wish to get a puppy from the next litter, this is fine. We can swing your deposit to the NEXT litter if you wish if you just can't seem to get what you want in a current litter. We will allow this one time only.

Once your response is reviewed, we will then email you an ok or a rejection. If your response is satisfactory, we then will tell you where to mail your deposit into. We will ask you to write on the memo, some basic information. This helps particularly when there are multiple litters available, to avoid confusion and mistakes. When you mail the deposit, we will want to know, so we can put your initials on our web site followed by pending or SOLD over a puppy picture. If the births have not yet taken place, we will simply put you "in line", in a numerical sequence as deposits are received. When a deposit is mailed to us, TEXT US RIGHT AWAY and we will mark your slot "pending". If a deposit lands BEFORE yours does, you will be bumped down a notch. When we physically receive the deposit, we let you know and remove pending and change it to SOLD. If a puppy has been selected by you at this point (births already occurred), we also add your initials and SOLD across the puppy photo.

We may request you to put on the memo of your check, the desired puppy ID# (if births have already occurred) that you have selected if this is possible. Most of the time deposits are received BEFORE the births have occurred...

I, as the breeder, occasionally pull one or more puppies for my own stock for breeding purposes. This is usually every 4-6 years and will delay the selection process until after I select a needed puppy for breeding purposes. If in any litter I intend to select a puppy, it will be hand selected due to physical attributes that are particularly noteworthy to help in reproduction of those same or enhanced attributes. This is to help my producing particularly wonderful future puppies. If I ever intend to keep a puppy from ANY litter, everyone is advised of this during the pre-screening / pre-qualification process. This way you know that there could be a delay in MY selection of one or more puppies.

Of course, you make your selection of a pup in the order in which your deposit was received, then the 2nd deposit received and so on. There will always be a 1st pick and a last pick. Neither means anything other than that's what the clients liked. The 1st pick selected does not mean it's the best and the last pick does not mean it's the worst puppy. It's simple selection, just like a pro ball payer, there's always a 1st pick and always a last pick, but they are all qualified players. So, if you get the LAST puppy, there's nothing wrong with it, it just means the others for whatever reason, had a different vision of what their pup should look like.

"Beauty is in the eye of EACH beholder", just like one persons trash is anothers treasure, so don't worry. When the 1st puppy is selected, it DOES NOT mean the others aren't handsome or pretty, it's just the way the pups were selected... If you really want 1st pick, 2nd pick, 3rd pick & so on, get your deposit in RIGHT AWAY ! If your not comfortable with being towards the end of a deposit chain, simply ask us to apply it towards the next litter and be FIRST, SECOND and so on...

We prefer to have all pups picked up on their release date, or immediately after. If you are unable to come on a particular release date, we will make accommodations for you at a day/time of your convenience, normally any of the 7 days a week at a time convenient for both of us.

Release dates are "preferably" on a Saturday or Sunday and can be just about any time and we allow about 30-45 mins to 1. get acquainted with your puppy, 2. go over feeding details, 3. bathroom habits and so forth, this way things aren't a mystery for you... 30-45 minutes in between each scheduled pick up time so folks aren't tripping over one another. It's pretty simple, render your cash payment / balance owed, get a couple facts to help the transition be easy and comfortable and that's it. We've had veteran Great Dane owners in and out in 10 minutes - just render payment and take off.

When you arrive at your scheduled time frame, you will be afforded a short time to sit and play with your selection and get acquainted with him/her. We give you physical records, shot records and some helpful info about training etc.. If for some reason there are pups available that do NOT have deposits on them, you may sit with all remaining pups and play with them, then make a new - selection. If for some reason there is NOT a puppy you like when you physically come out, your deposit, it is not refundable. You may pass your deposit onto the next litter and get in line for those sales. This has never happened but if and when it does, YOU WILL AUTOMATICALLY bump down a notch, any depositors already in line. This has never happened yet, but it may one day. By your sending in a deposit, you acknowledge and agree to this condition and that you HAVE read our site thoroughly and agree to it's conditions.

This is in an effort to produce certain looking offspring that I find appealing and that over the years, I observe my clients have looked mainly for. This is a long arduous process to get to where I am today. I do this in an effort to attempt to produce what I find particularly "universally" awesome pups, based on what I observe as what the vast majority of my clients have looked for combined with what I find "universally" appealing to the masses OVERALL.

I prefer to avoid buyers that want or ask for "show quality" pups in the context that THEY, look at things. These buyers are often hard to please and put the pups under a microscope (for lack of a better term). I prefer a buyer who simply wants a family pet, not "eye candy" or something like a "trophy wife". This is just too much for me to deal with! I work very hard to have produced what my Moms produce and I feel this is sufficient and these "high maintenance people", I have recommended to find other breeders who like the attention...

If you want a good quality purebred Great Dane from a responsible breeder, I'm your guy. Don't be surprised if your told to find another breeder if you come off as a trophy hunter. Not that there's anything wrong with that but again, I just don't need the DRAMA !!!

If you want a simple family pet, again, I'm your guy. They run freely with as needed supervision but are NOT wild. They sleep in the house or in out buildings I have for them. Sometimes, prettier than others and others times, not so much. I don't make the rules, Mother Nature does (I just try to manipulate them).

An umbilical hernia can usually be corrected by repeated massaging of the hernia, it's just some fat that leaked past the skin outside the belly. This usually happens because the mom has pulled to hard on the umbilical cord after birth. My daughter had an umbilical hernia when she was born and I did essentially the same thing to the hernia and it took care of it and she still has a normal belly button to this day.

This covers genetic abnormalities that affect the nervous system where the dog cannot function on it's own at all. This has NOT happened yet but may, some day. Something that would cause the Boxer to be unable to eat or stand on it's own, seizures etc. (not a common cold or a benign button tumor). I reserve the right to decide if a puppy should be replaced in the 12 months after purchase. I'll be fair but if it's not something I would want to deal with in my own brew of Boxers, I wouldn't expect you to either and I'd be happy to replace your Boxer. On the other hand, if you gave your puppy chicken bones and it chocked to death, don't expect a replacement. I would require a veterinarian statement of issues or death (this is for any dishonest folks that might be out there) that may have had their Boxer run over and are trying to get a free puppy.

If a health care guarantee is NOT purchased, the following conditions still apply...

The buyer agrees to have the dog examined by your veterinarian at your expense within 3 days from date of purchase. If veterinarian does not give the dog a clean bill of health, buyer must remedy any ailmentat their expense.

Seller has no obligation to remedy any condition existing and is not obligated to have the dog re-examined by anyone at their cost. Any condition that is minor or not, correctableor not, or any breed related minor or major condition is not covered and no condition which a dog will likely grow out of or not, is not covered and not the responsibility of the seller.

The dog is still warranted only for the purposes of being a companion animal, not for any other purpose or reason.

No warranty is given to the buyer for any special purpose or function of the dog. The dog is not to be used for any illegal or immoral activities and is not to be used for any puppy mill, dog farm or other mass producing or money making operation.

The dog remains to be sold to buyer as a pet only and nothing further.